Elevated bar food with a witty demeanor

White Horse –

Salt Lake City, UT – American – $$ – Upscale Bar
Sifter Critique

Nicole O. - Pro Sifter & PhotographerJune 28, 2019

Overall 4.7 / 5.0

4.7

Food

4.6

Service

4.5

Ambience

4.8

Value

Overview

White Horse is rocking the downtown food scene and upping the ante for bars everywhere. It’s not enough to have chips anymore. Now they need to be adorned with smoked oysters or malted vinegar powder. White Horse is making a name for itself, not only for bars but to compete with any restaurant in Downtown Salt Lake.

Value

It may be because they are new but the value for the food you get is unbelievable. For instance, they charge $14 for an amazing Wagyu burger. Go to Park City and pay $30 plus for a similar meal. So I would suggest going before they raise their prices!

Most popular dishes

Duck Breast, Wagyu Bacon Cheeseburger, Shishito Peppers, Fried Brussels Sprouts, Eggs, and Chips.

What I ordered

Hamachi Crudo, Rockefeller oyster, piquillo peppers, crispy fried Brussels sprouts, egg and chips, duck breast, steak lyonnaise, Wagyu bacon cheeseburger, and bourbon butterscotch pudding.

Food quality

They make nearly everything in-house and it’s apparent. Everything has a clean homemade flavor and the flown-in oysters were so fresh!

Egg and Chips
The house-made chips are brought out hot and the appetizer is made tableside. Each chip had a thin coating of creamy egg and a delicate vinegar flavor. Unlike most dishes utilizing truffle, this one didn’t overpower the other flavors and added a depth to the appetizer.

Hamachi Crudo
The fish was fresh and light with the cucumber adding a coolness, a bit of spice from the radish, with umami from pickled peppers. The horseradish crema wasn’t nippy but subtle and unobtrusive.

Rockefeller
This fresh oyster was covered with a creamy spinach filling and then topped with a buttery absinthe bread crumb. The plate was adorned with an adorable mini Tabasco bottle. It was a little too many savory flavors for me but the oyster was amazing. I hope to try some of their other variations.

Piquillo Peppers
Sweet and savory. The braised ribs were salty and the marsala added a sweetness. Goat cheese made the stuffed peppers creamy but the other flavors hid any gaminess. The meat was pull-apart tender and the peppers were soft.

Crispy Fried Brussel Sprouts
The Brussel sprouts were thoroughly cooked with the center being al dente. They had a slight bitterness that meshed well with the other flavors. The salty bacon pieces, soy-based sauce, and sweet dynamite sauce gave the Brussel sprouts a unique Asian flavor that worked well.

Duck Breast
The duck breast was great. I had it cooked medium rare as suggested by the chef but I found the middle to be a bit too chewy for my liking. The sour cherries and their sauce added a playfulness to the dish. The baby potatoes were moist with a nice crust. The broccolini portion was plentiful, something rarely seen with dishes like this.

Steak Lyonnaise
The culotte cut of wagyu beef was full of flavor and fairly tender. It was lightly peppered and had a sauce that seemed to be the same as what was put on the piquillo peppers. Loved the lyonnaise potatoes. A mix of onion, parsley, white wine, vinegar, and salt. Perhaps my favorite part of the dish. The broccolini was firm and had a great smokey flavor and was crisp with a slight char. The dish had an overall smoky wok flavor and was really great!

American Wagyu Bacon Burger
This burger made it into our top 15 list for best in taste, value, and experience.  The pork belly bacon is perfectly smoked and juicy, the American cheese lends creaminess but doesn’t taste trashy, the brioche bun tastes almost like a toasted croissant, sopping up the juices from the real star, the juicy, clean, wagyu beef patty. Similar burgers in Park City will run you double or even triple the price for the quality of beef!

Bourbon Butterscotch Pudding
The proportions were a bit off due to the mason jar. The bacon popcorn, bourbon caramel, and creme fraiche were overpowering in the beginning and then lacking once we got further into the jar. All the elements were great by themselves. The popcorn was sweet and salty, the bourbon caramel had a buzz to it, and the pudding itself was sweet yet clean.

 

Ambiance

Drawn by the underlit floor to ceiling wall of alcohol, you’ll be greeted and able to choose from patio seating or indoors (dimly lit). The brownstone is accentuated by the dark decor and lavish leather seating. The rear of the restaurant showcases the oysters. It wasn’t as loud as you would imagine and the music helped make it feel more intimate. The checks are brought out in old books, adding a fun touch.

Service

The wait staff was kind to everyone and we felt comfortable. Chef Matt Crandall can be seen visiting tables throughout the restaurant, even if you don’t bring a fancy camera!

What I liked most

The duck breast, Hamachi Crudo, egg and chips, and the crispy fried Brussel sprouts.

What I disliked most

The proportions of the pudding. It could have used more toppings mixed in to give it consistent flavor in every bite.  The Rockefeller oysters also had an overly-salty flavor.

The verdict

The atmosphere is comfortable, the food is amazing, and the price is low. I would be a weekly regular if it was closer.

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